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He asked me to go over the steering rack. The article is suitable for car owners Megane 2. For Megane 3, Scenic 2, 3, Fluence is the same. If you are sure that the supporting bearings work properly, and a crack or a knock when turning the handlebar in place or in motion takes place 2.

Reiki knocks on the left, or on the right. It will be required: 1.

Needle bearing Ina 717 0028 00 or equivalent. The cost of 45r. (By experience I will say that he most likely will not fuck you) 2.

Ball bearing of closed or open type size 203. I recommend BOSH. The price from 250r. (Old bearing is extremely rare) 3. Locking ring 16mm. The diameter of which is 3 mm.

Or if you do not find a ring with this thickness, no one will forbid you to put the washer (its diameter is 17mm, thickness is 2mm) between the bearing and the ring. About this further. The cost of 5-10p. Oment packing 7/43/9. The cost of 50r. Grease Graphite or SHRUS-4. Of the steering rack if necessary.

Elastic bands. The time of the clock 6. First check ( after tightening the steering wheel as usual, holding the steering column spindle ) whether the steering shaft spindle nut is sufficiently tightened ( if it is not tightened well and it will crackle ). If the tightening of the cross nut has helped you rejoice. Photos from another car, but the meaning is the same. Replacing the bush will solve only the problem of knocking on the pits. Therefore, it was decided to inspect the bearings and, if necessary, replace them.

Based on I soon realized that she also requires an editorial for the rank-and-file specialist)) Let's start with a review of this mechanism. In order to have an idea. The 'rake' consists of, actually, the rake itself, which is (1) a shaft with teeth. To this shaft, just from the ends are screwed the steering rods and tips.

Next comes the steering shaft (2), which is screwed to the cardan of the electric power steering. The steering shaft transmits rotary movement to the rail (1) by means of a helical pair and is supported by two needle (a) and ball bearings (b), for which there are special seats in the body (5) of the steering rack. And at number 4, the most ill-fated bushing ( for the order, please, I'll make ), with which all have problems. She does not give the shaft (1) backlash to the right, she does not play any role anymore. I already made a bushing in advance. To install the rack in the body of the sleeve, you need to put two rubber rings in size.

Allowed the ring from the candle wells 2112/2110 (from 30p), you can pick any other ( important so as not to stick out ).0 Next we will, in fact, repair. Have hung in front of the car. The steering wheel in the lock is mandatory (so as not to tear the pillow cushion). Do not forget to put the wheels and the wheel exactly. Unscrew the wheels and handpieces ( do not think in the process to hit the thread from the top, so that the tips drop out of the seat enough to knock the hammer on the pivot on the side of the tip ) head 17. Stabilizer bars not need to unscrew this universal error. Because sooner or later an asterisk in them will turn around and will sit over them, spending only time for that with them to spend.

Unscrew the subframe bolts by 16 and 18 to lower it. We unscrew the rail from the sub-frame with the head for 18 5. It is necessary to lower the stretcher as far as possible in order to pull out the rail. Personally, I put something like a spacer between the stretcher and the body. Remove the rack with the auto pulling right to the passenger.

We grip in a vice of suitable dimensions. Unscrew the right-hand rod with the gas wrench together with the tip at once, in order not to bring down the camber, counter-clockwise. Take the screw and the Phillips screwdriver. Screw the screw into the shaft seal (2). Screwed into a centimeter, we take the pliers and pull out the oil seal for the screw.

We throw out an epiploon. The size of the original on the photo.

Purchase in special stores. Do not try to hit the edge of the stuffing box, break the seat in the casing.